We headed back south out of Yellowknife. More bison (this one looked like he was fixin' to cash his chips in sometime soon) and birds, but no bears on the return trip. Did I mention the frost heaves in the road? They are huge, which was actually really fun on a motorcycle. Kind of a roller coaster ride. In a loaded stationwagon, however, picture sparks flying every 50 yards...We hit the dirt on the other side of the Mackenzie River. This road is called the Liard Trail, and is about 440 kilometers of non-paved, skeleton-jarring action!! We stopped at Sambaa Deh Falls Park to camp. The theme of fluffy, inviting kayaking play wave followed by insane waterfall downriver was repeated here. This particular falls, for those of you familiar with the South Fork of the Payette in Idaho, made Big Falls look like a Class III rapid. We took a hike below the falls to a great fishing spot. Major Arctic Grayling session!! Alert the media--AP has landed a fish.
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Odometer: 2891 miles
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